Macrame Keychains with Larks Head Knots

Macrame Keychains with Larks Head Knots

Posted on

5 min read

Macrame keychains are a quick way to learn the knots behind larger macrame projects, and the larks head knot is the one that starts almost everything. A keychain takes about twenty minutes, uses a short length of cord, and makes a sturdy accessory you can actually use every day. The larks head knot attaches the cord to the ring, and from there a few more knots build the body. Once you can make a keychain without thinking, you are ready for plant hangers, wall hangings, and bags.

Start with cotton macrame cord about three millimeters thick, a metal keyring, sharp scissors, and a comb or a brush for fraying the ends. Cut four cords about thirty inches long, since the knots will eat up more length than you expect, and it is better to trim extra cord than to run short. A clipboard or a piece of tape holds the ring steady while you knot, which keeps your tension even.

Macrame textile with knotted patterns

The Two Knots You Need First

Every macrame keychain starts with the larks head knot, which loops a folded cord over the ring and pulls the ends through the loop. Fold a cord in half, lay the fold over the ring, and pull the two loose ends through the fold, then pull tight. Repeat with all four cords so you have eight strands hanging from the ring, and make sure the knots sit snugly side by side. A tidy row of larks head knots is the foundation for everything that follows, so take a moment to straighten them.

The second knot to learn is the square knot, which uses four strands, two working cords on the outside and two filler cords in the middle. Cross the left cord over the fillers and under the right cord, then cross the right cord under the fillers and up through the loop on the left, then pull tight.

Measuring Cord Without Waste

Cord length is the most common beginner frustration, because knots consume far more cord than the finished piece suggests. A good rule is to cut each cord four times the finished length of the knotted section, plus a few extra inches for the fringe. For a keychain with a three inch knotted body, thirty inch cords leave enough for knots and a short fringe. If you are unsure, cut longer rather than shorter, since extra cord can be trimmed, but a cord that runs out mid-knot means starting over.

Measure all your cords at once by wrapping the cord around a book or a ruler a set number of times, then cutting the loops, which is faster than measuring each cord separately. Keep the cords in a bundle with a loose knot so they do not tangle before you start.

Building the Keychain Body

Start the body with a row of square knots across all eight strands, grouping them as two sets of four. Work the first knot snugly against the larks head knots, and keep each knot at the same tension so the body looks even. Add two or three more rows of square knots, staggering them like bricks if you want a netted look, or stacking them straight for a solid column. Check the length after each row, since it is easy to keep knotting past your target without noticing.

Keep the filler cords straight and let the working cords do the moving, because tangled fillers make lumpy knots. If the body starts to twist, your left and right knots are not balanced, so undo the last row and redo it with equal tension on both sides.

Adding Beads and Tassels

Beads add color and weight to a keychain, and a wooden bead threaded onto the filler cords before the last row sits neatly inside the knotwork. Choose beads with holes large enough for two cords to pass through, and test the fit before you knot them in. A single bead at the bottom of the body, held by one final square knot, looks clean and intentional. Avoid adding too many beads, since a keychain with five beads feels cluttered and heavy.

Finish the ends as a tassel by trimming the cords to an even length, then brushing them out with a comb to separate the fibers into a soft fringe. A fringe of about two inches looks balanced on a keychain, while a longer fringe tangles in pockets. If you prefer a neat finish instead of fringe, wrap the ends tightly with thread and trim them flush, which gives a clean, modern look.

Finishing Ends That Stay Tidy

Secure the last knot with a tiny drop of clear glue on the back, which stops the knot from loosening with daily use. Keep the glue off the front of the knotwork, since dried glue looks shiny and stiff. Trim the fringe with sharp scissors, cutting a little at a time and checking the length, because you cannot add cord back once it is cut. Comb the fringe one last time and give the keychain a gentle tug to make sure every knot holds.

Make a second keychain right away using the same pattern, since the second one always goes faster and the knots come out more even. Try a different cord color or add a bead to see how small changes alter the look, and keep notes on the cord lengths that worked.

This topic connects to more than you might expect — follow it further with the guides below, led by How to Make a Macrame Camera Strap with Cotton Cord.

Reference: Keychains — Wikipedia

Related Articles:

Tried this project?

Show us how yours turned out in the comments — your version might be exactly the inspiration another maker needs.

If this tutorial helped, share it with a fellow crafter.