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Sewn aprons with patch pockets from kitchen towels are a clever way to turn everyday linens into something you will actually use. A kitchen towel is already the right size, hemmed on the edges, and made of absorbent cotton, so it becomes an apron with very little sewing. Patch pockets add a place for a phone, a recipe card, or a thermometer, which makes the apron practical as well as pretty. A towel apron takes under an hour, uses one or two towels, and makes a wonderful gift for anyone who cooks.
Start with two kitchen towels in a pattern you like, matching thread, a ruler, scissors or a rotary cutter, pins, and ribbon or twill tape for the ties. Choose flat-weave towels rather than terry cloth, since the smooth surface sews neatly and the apron drapes better.

Choosing Towels That Sew Well
Not every kitchen towel makes a good apron, so choose towels that are flat, sturdy, and large enough to cover your front. A towel about twenty by thirty inches gives you an apron that covers from chest to knee on most adults, while a smaller towel suits a child or a half apron. Avoid towels with heavy texture or waffle weave, since they sew unevenly and the apron looks lumpy. A cotton or linen towel presses crisply and holds a crease, which makes the sewing step much easier.
Pick a towel with a print that reads well as an apron, such as stripes, checks, or a small floral, since a large scenic print can look awkward when it is cut and folded. If you use two towels, choose ones that coordinate, such as a print for the body and a solid for the pockets.
Cutting the Apron Shape
Lay the towel flat and mark the apron shape, which is a rectangle with the top corners cut away to form the bib and armholes. Measure the width across the chest, usually about ten inches, and the length from chest to knee, then mark the armhole curves from the top corners down to the waist. Cut along the marks with sharp scissors, keeping the cut smooth, since a jagged armhole shows on the finished apron. Save the cut-off pieces, because they make perfect patch pockets.
Hem the armhole curves by folding the edge under twice and stitching it down, pressing as you go so the curve lies flat. A curved hem takes patience, so sew slowly and ease the fabric around the curve rather than pulling it straight. If the curve puckers, clip tiny notches into the seam allowance, which lets the fabric spread around the bend.
Sewing Patch Pockets
Cut two patch pockets from the saved towel pieces, each about six inches wide and seven inches tall, and hem the top edge of each pocket. Fold the other three edges under by half an inch and press them, so the pocket edges look clean when you sew them on. Pin the pockets to the front of the apron, positioning them at hip height where your hands naturally fall, and check the placement by holding the apron up against yourself. A pocket that sits too high is awkward to use, while one that sits too low bumps against your legs.
Stitch each pocket down along the two sides and the bottom, backstitching at the top corners to reinforce them, since pocket corners take the most strain. Sew a second line of stitching at the top corners in a small triangle or rectangle, which is the bar tack that keeps pockets from tearing off.
Attaching Neck and Waist Ties
Attach a neck strap at the top of the bib, using a loop of ribbon, twill tape, or a strip of towel fabric, long enough to slip over your head comfortably. Sew the strap ends to the back of the bib with several rows of stitching, since the neck strap carries the weight of the apron. Add waist ties at the side seams, each about twenty inches long, so they wrap around your back and tie in front. Use sturdy tape or ribbon for the ties, since thin cord digs into your waist and wears out quickly.
Reinforce every tie attachment with a square of stitching, because ties pull loose with daily use if they are only tacked on. Test the ties by tugging them firmly before you call the apron finished, and re-stitch any join that feels weak.
Finishing and Caring for Towel Aprons
Finish the apron by trimming all loose threads, pressing every seam, and checking that the pockets and ties are secure. A final press makes a towel apron look crisp and professional, while a wrinkled apron looks unfinished. Try the apron on and check the length, the pocket placement, and the tie length, adjusting anything that feels off before you gift it. A towel apron that fits well gets worn every day, while one that is too long or too tight ends up in a drawer.
Wash the apron in warm water with your towels, and expect it to soften with each wash, which makes it more comfortable to wear. Press it after washing if you want it to look crisp, or let it air dry for a softer, lived-in feel. Make a second apron in a different towel pattern right away, since the second one always goes faster and the pockets come out straighter.
Enjoyed this? Hardanger Embroidery Basics: Cutwork on Evenweave picks up right where this leaves off.
Reference: Aprons — Wikipedia
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